If the force on an object is in the negative direction, the work it does on the object must be? You can use the same procedure to make a profile of the area outside your classroom. Refraction is the change in direction of waves as they move between materials with different properties. Which type of current flow moves in a circular path around a subtropical convergence, reflecting Ekman transport, gravity, and the Coriolis effect? Explore our library and get Introduction to Oceanography Homework Help with various study sets and a huge amount of quizzes and questions, Find all the solutions to your textbooks, reveal answers you wouldt find elsewhere, Scan any paper and upload it to find exam solutions and many more, Studying is made a lot easier and more fun with our online flashcards, Try out our new practice tests completely, 2020-2023 Quizplus LLC. -Waves in phase have different wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough Large coastal storms such as hurricanes initially cause all of the following except: a.coastal erosion. b.destructive interference. B. capillary wave Fig. Your email address will not be published. If wave steepness ever exceeds a 1:7 ratio, then the wave breaks. -the lowest part of the wave -Shipwrecker waves The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the. -a gently sloping sandy bottom. 55. Popular surf destinations tend to be located in geographic regions that are in a position to be regularly impacted by swells. -The wavelength produced when two or more waves interact. . As waves move from deep to shallow water, the wavelength decreases (L1 > L2). The waves touch bottom. a. Of the following statements about ocean waves, which is/are true? Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of . 5.9 A). the wave pattern produce when two or more waves interact. Waves converge on headlands due to __________. What type of sediment is the most abundant by volume? A)constructive interference.B)destructive interference.C)wave diffraction.D)wave reflection.E)wave refraction. 52. d. wave reflection. In general, if the bottom is very sloped, the resulting wave will be spilling. Which type of breaker is a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave as it breaks? As the bay is surrounded by land, one can come across calmer waters than the oceans. In general the restoring force for wind-generated waves is: The celerity (speed) of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 9 meters, relative to that of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 1 meter, will be ______________. The center of mass of the Earth-Moon system is called the ____. -Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. Will you still be able to buy Godiva chocolate? 47. c.The gravitational attraction just between the Earth and Sun. Fig. , where T is the wave period and g is the acceleration due to gravity (9.8 meters per second squared). As waves approach shallow water, they are refracted, changing the direction of the wave front, and their wavelength decreases. A) gravity waves. b. -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs, The distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs, What is the wave period? Fossilized remains of ancient marine life. -The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact. Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called ________. a series of water waves that travel away from a fault in all directions at a high speed. -When two waves that are 180 degrees out-of-phase interfere. They crystallize (precipitate) from dissolved material in seawater. siliceous ooze (SiO2, plankton shells). Marine sediments are classified by size broadly as __________. are formed when electrons are shared by atoms. 5.20. The circular motion of water molecules. c.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during fall. -the highest part of the wave 5.6). Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases. -A wave with an amplitude that is the difference between the amplitudes of the initial two waves. In addition, for many the ocean is a source of inspiration, recreation, rejuvenation, and discovery. the relationship between sea surface temperature and changing atmospheric pressure. about half way between high and low tides. Which of the following is not a source of deep water in the ocean? University of Hawaii, 2011. a.are narrower than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter. An area that experiences diurnal tides will have ________. c.at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor. -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs Why are headlands more susceptible to erosion than bays? e. they enhance the natural flow of sand along a beach. North Atlantic Central Surface Water (NACSW). Waves do not break as often in the gap where the rip current forms because the gap is deeper than the surrounding areas. Locations with wind that typically blows offshore or side-shore are usually preferable to on-shore winds. 5.4. D) wave reflection. Based on the graph, which of the following has the highest density? d.The gravitational attraction just between the Earth and Moon. Wave sets coming from deeper waters refract as they come into shore, changing direction to match the shape of the coastline. Correct Answer: Access For Free Review Later Choose question tag Water from colliding waves can also explode, forming geysers of white water as the wave breaks. Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave steepness? Waves converge on headlands due to wave refraction draw a wave that results from interference of solid and dashed waves straight line a tsunami might result from tectonic activity on the seafloor tides caused by ____ forces b/t the Earth and the ____ as well as the Earth and the ___. The distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave. 23. molecule has a positive and negative charge. C. gravity wave Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called. If the bottom is very steep, the resulting waves will be plunging. the inverse of wave frequency D) constructive interference. a. vast number of dinosaur fossil bones. (A) A warning sign explains rip current dangers and how to avoid them. -Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths. -Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. What landforms are formed inland by erosion? Why does the damming of rivers sometime contribute to coastal erosion? Fig. -When waves with identical amplitudes interfere. An eddy is a circular, whirlpool-like, movement of water (Fig. e.volcanic activity resulting in the formation of new continental crust. -A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. Based on the equations for determining the speed of shallow-water waves, which one of the following variables is necessary to determine the speed of shallow-water waves? Rip currents are narrow, river-like currents that flow perpendicular to the coast, heading out to sea (Fig. L1 is the wavelength of the incoming waves and L2 is the wavelength of the refracted waves. What type of plate boundary are most tsunamis associated with? HELP PLEASE! The movement of sea water at a pynocline creates ____ waves. -a gently sloping rocky bottom In other words, why not just put in one groin? principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth. -When waves with large amplitudes interfere. Fig. Tidal ranges will be greatest when the Earth and the Moon are at ________. Weathering is the chemical and physical break down of a rock over a long period of time. Wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. The time it takes for a full wave to pass a stationary object is called the wave: Definition. -the lowest part of the wave surface currents form circular patterns in the major ocean basins called "gyres.". If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? 5.4 B) form when the bottom slopes gradually. Combinations of each type of wave often occur in a surf zone. A vast majority of all large tsunami are generated in the ____ ocean. tectonic activity on the seafloor A tsunami is considered to be a ____. -The waves are moving faster just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. D. wind Constructive wave, A problem with the worldwide shark fisheries is __________. -Water moves in a circle in the same direction as wave movement. (B) A sign at Haena Beach Park, Kauai, HawaiI, warns swimmers that rip currents can sweep swimmers out to sea. (CaCO3), Foraminifera, Coccolithophores, Misc. Calcareous algae Fig. Report a problem? Why are headlands more susceptible to erosion than bays? This document may be freely reproduced and distributed for non-profit educational purposes. Based on the graph, a deep-water wave with a period of 16 seconds should have a speed of ________ meters per second and a wavelength of ________ meters. Make Print-Friendly, When you're ready to print, just click this button: Any shoreline construction causes change in the beach environment. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an. There are three types of breaking waves: plunging breakers, spilling breakers, and surging breakers. These and additional wave patterns are listed in Table 5.2. Arial view of large surf zone in South Australia (Dog Fence Beach, western Eyre Peninsula). A. winds blowing across the ocean surface, B. density differences between water layers, A. at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor, B. close to shore as it moves into shallow water, D. at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean, E. at a density boundary within the ocean. Landforms and beach slope can be affected by waves. a. as evaporation increases, inflow decreases. What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength? Wave refraction. Based on the graph, which of the following has the highest temperature? You are here: Home When How are headlands and bays formed a level geography? The center of an open ocean tidal system is called a/an ________. 2003-2023 Chegg Inc. All rights reserved. A sign warns beach goers at Hanauma Bay, Oahu, Hawaii of the potentially strong longshore currents that flow parallel to shore. The ________ force pulls an orbiting body toward the center of that orbit. -Water moves in a circle in the direction opposite to wave movement. Fig. When a meander from the gulf stream pinches off and isolates a body of water within the North Atlantic gyre, the body of water is called a ____. In terms of tidal theory (and the above figure; part A), constructive tidal properties cause: In terms of tidal theory (and the above figure; part B), destructive tidal properties cause: An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have: d.two high tides and two low tides of nearly equal height daily. If the process of speciation appears to occur relatively rapidly, why don't we see new species evolving all the time? A storm surge b. 5.20). The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the ____. Sediment layer with larger particles on the bottom and finer particles toward the top. The altering rate of erosion of hard and soft rock is known as differential erosion. Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces: A storm surge might form in association with a seafloor avalanche. What does the term "in phase" refer to? shallow-water wave The movement of air across the ocean surface creates ____ waves. Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave period? Manganese nodules Why do ships at sea tend not to notice tsunamis? b.coastal flooding. What physical factors affect the magnitude of a gravitational force? Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. b. thick layers of evaporitic minerals (e.g., salts) on the seafloor. e.wave refraction. Weathering of the crust produces sediment and. Over time, erosion can cause cliff collapse therefore the coastline needs to be managed. Spilling breakers (Fig. An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have ________. Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation? An estuary is a semi-enclosed coastal body of water where, Figure 8A-1 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig08A-1.png The Coriolis Effect deflects a fluid to the ______ in the Northern Hemisphere. B. fetch, wind duration, and wind speed, A. the distance over which the wind blows without interruption, B. a method of shoreline erosion control, C. the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level, D. the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes. Spilling breakers form when fast-moving water at the top of a wave spills over slower-moving water at the bottom. has very high high tides and very low low tides. Diverging surface waters are areas of ____ and ___ productivity. Coastal processes of erosion include hydraulic action, attrition, corrosion and solution. The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to: The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea or sea area. due to evaporation along the equator, the water in these currents has much, higher salinity than coastal waters or surface water in the center of the. 48.The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to _________. -Deep-water waves are: orbital waves. Course Hero is not sponsored or endorsed by any college or university. In Figure 8A-1, the western, Figure 8A-3 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig08A-3a.jpg "At middle and low latitudes of both the Southern and Northern Hemispheres in Figure 8A-3, coastal areas, The September-October wind pattern transports coastal surface waters ______ producing ______. The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to ________. How might global warming exacerbate coastal hazards? 5.6. The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim. -The waves have shorter wavelength just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. By the time the wave reached the "6 hours" line west of Hawai'i, the wave moved slower in some places than in others. Four common types of surfing breaks include beach, point, reef, and river mouth: Tides can dramatically affect the quality of surf because they influence both water motion and the relative depth of the bottom contour. The gravitational attraction among the Earth, Moon, and Sun. -The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. In a reflected wave, the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection for wave direction. -A wave with an amplitude that is the multiplication of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. Thermohaline circulation is driven by ___. waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction. Test Prep. If the side of the Earth that faces the Moon experiences a high tide, then the side of the Earth that is opposite from the Moon will have a ________. As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________. Lithogenous, Biogenous, Hydrogenous, Cosmogenous. In terms of erosion protection from wave action, seawalls: Relative (local) changes in sea level might include: a.tectonic activity resulting in a regional coastline that is higher or lower. Earth is the only major body in the solar system on which there are active volcanoes. The larger the wavelength and the smaller the barrier opening, the greater the waves will appear to bend around the barrier. E) wave diffraction. Deep-water waves are: Definition. d.wave reflection. b.at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean. The coastline is the boundary between the ocean and the land. -the highest part of the wave a. is a function of the wind direction. 5.19). Fig. The strength and speed of a rip current dissipates as it heads out to sea, where the channel becomes wider or shallower. true or false . Spilling waves advance to shore with a line of foam tumbling steadily down the front of the wave face. Surf is characterized by lines of foam formed by breaking waves and a distinctive, often rhythmic sound that many people find peaceful. -the highest part of the wave (B) Multiple rip currents along the beach in Tunquen, Chili. d.silt and clay (i.e., very small particle size). Wave energy is focused on headlands by wave refraction. Anatomy of a rip current, showing how currents parallel to shore intersect with the rip current heading out to sea. A shallow-water wave must form in water depth less than 100 meters. than other ocean surface currents because ___________. Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. Plunging breakers (Fig. The angular distance of the Sun or the Moon above or below the Earth's equatorial plane is called the ________. Will Xbox Series X ever be in stock again? Waves at the ocean surface are ____ waves. Approximately half of the worlds population lives within 200 km of a coastline. Smaller waves tend to break in shallower water, closer to shore. As waves approach the coast, they refract in shapes that mirror the coastline. Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical wave formation? If the bottom is very steep, a plunging wave becomes a collapsing wave, when the top of the wave breaks onto the lower part of the wave. These lines of weakness get enlarged and develop into small sea caves. where storm waves move against strong surface currents. How does wave amplitude change with depth in water? 59) Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation? Coastal features are constantly changing; the same beach can look different over the span of a season or even a day. All of the following statements are true of ocean sediments except: Ocean sediments are thickest in pelagic waters overlying the oceanic ridges. Wave celerity of a deep water wave is equal to ____. -Superwaves A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least: The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a: As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height: Ocean waves in motion are classified as ______waves. Water waves are refracted as they move from deep water to shallow water. Why do ocean waves bend around headlands? When I do it myself I get all the answers correct but I don't haveenough time to, Figure 9B-2 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig09B-2.png "The data for net primary productivity at Hydrostation "S" in the North Atlantic Ocean presented in Figure, Investigation 9B CHESAPEAKE BAY ESTUARY Objectives Chesapeake Bay, as seen in Figure 1, is the nation's largest and most productive estuary. The time between two successive waves is called the. Refraction and diffraction affect the amount of wave energy reaching a coastline. School Acadia University; Course Title GEOL 1003; Type. All Rights Reserved. C) spilling breakers. -A wave with an amplitude that is the larger of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. -the bending of waves due to a change in wavelength, -the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity. e.All of the above might be found along a secondary coast. Ions from atmospheric and volcanic gases. A tidal current can produce a rapidly spinning body of water called a vortex or ________. The first waves formed by the wind on a previously flat water surface, The area offshore within which waves are breaking is called the. Wave height increases. Plunging waves form tubes or barrels that cascade water in a circular motion downward into the trough and break with a forceful crash, rapidly releasing energy. The uplift of downdropping of large areas of the sea floor creates ____ waves. Is Harlech Castle part of National Trust? -The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. orthogonals that become more closely spaced as they approach the shore. Water waves exhibit the same behaviors as other waves, including electromagnetic and sound waves, when they encounter a boundary, such as an object. 5.9 B). Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction. 21) Waves converge on headlands due to: A) constructive interference. Waves in the surf zone begin to behave like shallow-water waves when ________. Combinations of each type of wave often occur in a surf zone. C. surf -When two waves that are in-phase interfere. As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________. There are surf breaks all over the Pacific ocean basin. a.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during spring. Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water? c.contain more sediment than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter. Eddies can transport nutrients onshore, offshore, or from deep water, helping to maintain populations of plankton. What is the relationship between Atlantic inflow and evaporation rates in the Mediterranean Sea? E) wave refraction. through displacement of the seafloor under water. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are. -the furthest distance a wave can get to shore before dissipating A tsunami may result from: Tectonic activity on the seafloor A tsunami is considered to be a: e. wave refraction. -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough, -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough. waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction, they bounce wave energy back across the beach and cause erosion, When waves approach the shore and enter shallow water, the waves slow down and the wave height increases, seacliffs are exposed to wave action, and they are also steep slopes, which can make them susceptible to landslides. a. boulders, rocks, clay b. gravel, sand, mud c. lithogenous, hydrogenous, biogenous d. conglomerate, sandstone, shale e. igneous. On irregular coasts. 5.2. In general, a good surf spot is one that breaks fairly often and in a manner that offers rideable waves. How are headlands and bays formed a level geography? Based on the graph, which of the following has the lowest temperature? The steeper the bottom slope, the greater the increase in wave height. -Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases. A rip current is strongest at its neck, where the currents merge and flow back to sea through a deeper channel (Fig. The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to _____. Of the following offshore ocean conditions, which one(s) would likely produce spilling breakers? Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave "life"?
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